exhaust dec 2020

Time to replace the burnt out glass pack muffler.

Started by gutting cat, installing heavy mesh insert in cat, replacing glass pack with flowmaster hp2 laminar flow muffler. 

Lots of welding and grinding to make it leak free then wrapping with header wrap.  

 

I like the sound and decibels have dropped by 10 according to the sound meter app.  the tone is a lot deeper too. 

metal boot cover

I was looking at several different soft boot covers.  For the money I did not see anything that I liked and would let me lock the removable steering wheel away and out of site.

A little more fit and finish is needed then some paint and the lock.  

All metal with sliding plates around roll bare brace.  

Lock installed and cleaned.  Need to decide if I will leave the metal raw or paint black.

Under the Hood

   several months and a few adjustments made

 - under hood seal

- removed evap canister and lines that were not connected 

- installed fuel filter

- installed new mechanical fuel pump

    - pump was too high a pressure.  the New old stock pump was suppose to be 4 - 8 PSA.  It was running at 6.8 psi when installed.  

     - installed Mr Gasket 1 - 6 PSI fuel regulator

    - set Fuel Pressure on regulator at 1.5 PSI and it measured 3 at the Carbs with Fuel Pressure guage

MSD Ignition

- unable to set the timing to 12BTDC with timing light.   MSD needs old school static type.  

- separated the plug wires to ensure best chance of setting timing on Cyl 1

- plug wires did not have ends at the Dist.

- installed plug wire ends and re-routed wires for seperation

- set timing with 3122 timing light. to 12 BTDC

Carb Setup

- Adjusting the air horns changed the fuel needs.  Mikuni PHH44 were overly rich and fouling plugs

- changed plugs to iridium.

- Overly rich and poor milage 

- turned down fuel at Pilot jet screw.  from 3 or 2 turns 

- installed innovate MTX-L AFR Guage

    -  AFT at 10 or less at idle, Cruze AFR 10.5 and transition 11.2 and WOT 10.2

    - turn down fuel to 0.5 to 1 turn out

    - AFR at Idle 11.9 to 12.2.   Cruze 12.5 and WOT 12 with transition 12.5 to 13.4

- adjusted idle down from 1400 hot to 900 hot

   

- 

Rear Suspension

Drivers' Rear shock was leaking fluid so I started to investigate.  Once I removed the boot carpet and floor I was able to access the top of the shocks. 

There were no identifying marks on the original shock/coilover.

I removed both coilovers and the shock was completly empty of fluid and pressure.   The passenger side has minor leaks starting.

decided to replace both as they were sealed units and not rebuildable. 

Decided on QA1 DS502 with 17 inches extended, 14.5 ride and 11.6 compressed.  With the 125lb spring, this should be more effective than the stock 104 lb with 12"x 2.5" spring

18 position adjustable for compression and rebound. 


ordered from Summit Racing

Installed and adjusted to softest setting.   Next year I may select a softer spring that is 10" long to allow for additional adjustment.  possibly 115lb for 10" spring

air filter assembly

Air Filter Assembly

-  the engine started with 75MM velocity stacks with SS screens only.  These are rather restrictive and do no filtering.  The particle size on the screens is 140 micros while typical dust is 20 to 30 microns.  So there is little to no filtration of dust, bugs or rain.

While this may look cool it is not very effective and keeping the dirt out of the engine.  The chokes were wide open to the atmosphere.  

I went with ITG Sausage filter from Daemon-Tweeks with an aluminum blank mounting plate.

Step 1 was to cut down the velocity stacks from 75mm to 47mm.  cut holes for the throttle bodies, chokes and velocity stack mounts.  This left very little room for the filter to fit.   After trial and error the only way to fit was to install the 3rd velocity stack (from the firewall) first.  Then insert the stack for the front cylinder and mount it.  This was followed by the rear two velocity stacks.   

The completed project provides filtration and quietened the intake sounds slightly.  

Lexan Doors

Lexan Doors

After advice from the Internet and Industrial Plastics, I went with 3mm  M10 - Lexan.  This is the version with the Antiscratch coating.

-  I removed the metal frame from the original doors. and attached a cardboard cutout of the door.  This allowed for adjustments and tight fit to the new door opening.

Once I was happy with the fit I used the cardboard as a template to transfer to the Lexan sheet.

The next step was to cut the Lexan.  I choose to use the scroll saw for this and while it did do the job with the new plastics blade is was difficult to control and shape the corners.  For the second door, I used the Bosch Jigsaw with the Plastics blade.

This made for very easy and controlled cuts, corners and shaping.  The edges were cleaned up on the belt sander.  the final edge sanding was done with a hand file and 400grit paper.

I next attached the metal frame from the original door to the Lexan.  All holes were drilled with cobalt drill bits and a slow and steady drill made perfect holes.

Blind nuts were used to connect the two together.  A strap with snap for a door latch and I was on the road.

The added length of the door eliminates the buffeting from the sides.  Even at highway speeds, the buffeting is negligible. 

To test this I removed the doors and went for a blat around the block onto the highway. I got up to 60 MPH and the wind and vortex tried to suck the toque right off my head.  This is the standard effect of a doorless 7 on the highway.  

Test 2 was to put the wind wings on and go for another loop.  While this was better and my hat stayed on my head is was less than comfortable at speed.

The final test was with the doors for the same loop.  Wow, what a difference.  Virtually eliminated the buffeting and I was able to have a conversation with the passenger.  

provincial inspection

Inspection at Ian Tait Mechanical

- Professional service at a reasonable price

- minor repair to a headlight and i was on my way with an inspection sticker