Brochure and Factory Articles

Front Fender Gap

Winter project 2022-23:  

The gap from the front tire to the edge of the clam shell fender is 5 1/4"   while the rear is set at 3".

The chassis height is perfect so I do not want to change this.   The solution is to remover the fenders, adjust the mounts and then reattach the fenders.

Fingers crossed the headlights have enough adjustment to point in the correct lane.

 

These highlight the large fender gap.   No on to testing a solution.

Buy 3/16 x 1" fender welt.

Remover fenders, lights and adjust front fender support down 2 1/2".  Re weld support and test fit.

Step 2 was making custom spacers to realign the headlights.  Presto ! Winter project done.   Oil change and it will be ready for spring.

mirrors

Blind spots were a problem with original mirror locations.

Great view of the fender but not able to see cars behind.    So changing the bolts on windshield frame and then relocated mirrors slightly higher and closer to frame.    Removed the extension arms too.

This was version 1 but still difficult to see blind spots. 

Raised location with the extension arms added.   This is the best option so far.   

front brakes

The front disc's are past the point of turning.  

Its time to remove and replace the discs.

rear view mirror - cell phone mount.

I was tired of not being able to see behind me and blind spots in side mirrors.  I removed the ineffective dash mount mirror and made a cell phone holder for a rear view in selfie mode.   .

dash replacement

Starting with the old.....the original dash was 1/8 plywood padded with 1/8 foam and covered in vinyl.  It has not aged well. Several of the switches were removed from the front rather that the back as the core wood material had decintegrated.  

Dash Removed - wiring was a mess to start.  

- Several segments were removed. 

-  All Wire taps removed

- Twisted together grounds all removed. 

- all ground connections were replaced. 

- all open hot wires sealed with heat shrink.  Over all the electrical system is now safe and reliable.

Dashed cutout - using the original as a template the new dash was formed in 18 gauge sheet metal.  The depth of dash was reduced to add approx 2cm of additional clearance for my knees.  The straight lower edge was formed to a smooth radius that forms to the lower cross brace.  

Dash covered in vinyl - after several test fit sessions, the dash was covered in marine-grade leather-look vinyl.  The look is very close to the original but should weather much better.  The vinyl was bonded directly to the metal dash.  A much crisper look to the final product.  

Installed and rewire started

underside cover installed.     The switch labels and matching switch bezels are still on backorder.  

Toggle covers added to Wioer, fuel and AFR switches

cool air vent for footwell

In summer driving the footwell gets too hot.  As in 120F hot.   Thermal solutions only go so far as the primary issue is that the air in the footwell is a negative pressure zone and does not move.  It is bearable when moving but at slow speed, the driver's left leg below the knee is scorching.  The solution is to add a vent to each foot well. 

Step 1 was to install a NACA duct under the car below the carbs.  The fresh air will be sucked into the low pressure zone in the foot well via the 76mm high temp hose. (black hose in the pic above)

Step2) 3 inch high temp hose covered with high temp exhaust wrap.  As the vent hose is sitting on the transmission and against the rear of the engine any heat reduction is a positive.  

Step4) install 76mm to 2 port 51mm splitter through firewall.  this was sourced from Demon-Tweeks in the UK. 

Step 5) install vents in footwell.  Each vent can be set open/closed and directed 360deg.  This will allow flow to be adjusted for best results. 

Note: inside ductwork was completed while the dash was out for ease of access.