Starting front to back:
- Headlights - dim light on high and low beam. Tested light on the other side and the light is fine. Check voltages and possible loose connections. changed passenger side headlight socket $2.50. Good connection at the light but lights are still dim. Traced ground wire and intermittent ground issue. Replaced ground connection. Lights working correctly. (Future project is to put entire wiring harness in a protective loom)
After the first drive of March to have it inspected, of course, the other headlight ground came loose. A quick patch and all lights were in order.
Brakes - soft pedal. Put the car on axle stands. Removed tires and inspected brakes. No obvious damage. Bled the Brakes and drivers rear had issues. Signs of leaking and cylinder was stuck on one side. Replaced rear pads ($40 and both read cylinders ($20). Better feel but the front is dragging a little.
Removed front callipers and cleaned pistons, replaced seals and reinstalled. bled brakes and good pedal feel.
In 2021 I repositioned the brake hoses so that they did not touch suspension on sharp right turns.
Flushed Clutch while doing brakes.
Seats - sitting too high and too far forward. Removed seats and made aluminum seat from 4mm aluminum 5250 sheets. Drivers is 16 wide and passenger is 14.
Metal from metal mart $150. Bent at 18 inches for seat bottom at 60 degrees and 11-inch for headrest at 30 degrees.
Covering base with 3/4 inch closed-cell waterproof foam and back is 1/2 inch.
Cut with a jigsaw to shape headrest and hole saw for harness belts.
The driver's side seat is mounted and bolts to frame. The rear of the seat is mounted through the seat and through the rear frame. Some work still needs to be done to smooth edges and then finalize fit. The last step will be to mount the Rubber padding to the seat once the location and belts are remounted.
seat edges and mounts need to be cleaned up but the rough-in is done. Rubber will be the last step.
- rubber is installed and the second seat is complete and mounted. March 2020
- Seats are now ready for use.
2021 seat updated with Sabelt inserts. They look great and add just a little bit of padding. Comfortable for a few 100+ km runs.
Harnesses:
- 5 point harness in on its way for the passenger side (Cam style)
- 5 point harness for drivers side is on its way (Cam Style). It was less expensive to purchase 2 new harnesses than import a matching vintage Willans harness.
March 2020 - Ended up going with 2 new Tanaka harnesses in black.
Seat Belts mounts - Modified eye bolt to a low profile for all belts to improve fit. We will have to make 4 point mounts for the passenger side.
- installed March 2020
The passenger side needed the E-brake to relocate. It is now removed and planning on making custom mount 35 CM forward on the passenger side. Making mount and installing.
the e-brake reinstall went smoothly. replaced brake cable with 1/8 Stainless Aircraft wire.
Seat shape is bent the same as the driver's side. Front mounts are fab'ed and in place. Rear mounts are complete.
Dash
Removed dash to check wiring and gauge issues. Fix oil pressure gauge, water pressure. Reattached loose speed-o cable. Traced wire for lights, headlight switch. Need to replace a couple gauge lights.
Refit dash under lip. Install additional dash fasteners. (next week add additional support to underside corners of dash)
Next update will be winter 2021 for dash replacement or dash recover.
Smiths Gauges - first experience with smiths. The Oil pressure sender is built into the gauge and not at the engine. The water temp has a bulb at the water pump with an ether filler tube that goes to the back of the gauge to indicate water temp.
All other gauges and switches working (or appear to work) still need to determine red light in between the signals and the two blue lights at the far end. Current guess is Brake Failure warning in the middle, oil pressure warning and Emergency Brake on in Blue at the end. Wire tracing with a camera is a future job.
Amps and fuel guage replaced and AFR added fir tuning. Toggle switches for AFR, Fuel tank, wiper motor.
Steering Wheel
Remove steering wheel and mount. purchased Keyser PCR Quick Release Hub ($80). Removed old Hub and shaft Roll Pin. Install Steel Hex Shank. Drill and Install New Roll Pin. Install a quick disconnect steering hub. Make aluminum mount adapter from 3 bolt-on Hub to 6 bolt-on Personal Wheel.
Rear Boot - Remove trunk carpet and floor. Dry out and refit. Replace floor in the future and carpet. I also need boot cover. estimates from companies and Softbits UK are on the way. May also make a cover out of aluminum so that it can be locked.
Feb update on Boot. Selected Tommys for custom made the cover. Approx $100 will be made after the car is on the road....and after Covid19 work stoppages.
Decided to make locking Boot. See separate update.
Hood - aka roof is off for estimates for repair or replacement.
March 2020 - Tommy's completed door mod for the top. moved to the second snap to lengthen the door by 8 inches. with Lexan door I can now see out the side while driving
Drivers Windshield bracket - Removed and cleaned. Corner of the bracket has a poorly repaired crack. Tried to Alumni-braze the crack but it cracked again on stress testing. Alumi-braze is not very strong for but joints. This will be Tig welded next week and then reinstalled.
Local Tig Welder did an amazing job. 100% repaired for $40. It is a single new piece of Aluminum. Must get a Tig welder someday.
Exhaust - patched hole in exhaust near drivers fender. This is only a temp patch to pass inspection and then muffler and tailpipe will be replaced. Considering adding custom Seven Stainless Exhaust Heat Shield.
Current March thought is to go with a 18" flowmaster hp2 18" laminar flow muffler section with the tailpipe out the back.
Dead Pedal - fab'ed up the dead pedal and temp mount. Once driving I will test location and adjust as needed then permanently mount.
Removed pedal cluster via a hatch in the engine bay. installed dead pedal. rebuilt pedals, new bushings and washers and they are all nice and smooth.
Clutch adjustment was this afternoon project. Set the pedal height for more legroom and adjusted the hair-trigger clutch. Decent pedal feel and I will drive it a bit then adjust one more time once I'm comfortable.
Lowered the Clutch pedal and increased leg room by 1 inch. lowered brake pedal by 2 inches. adjusted gas pedal by 2 inches
Aug 2020 the dead pedal is gone as I want more foot pedal room than comfort.
Lexan Doors - discussed on separate page
- complete March 2020
Last few months.
- set timing. 12 degrees after working my way through 3 timing lights to find one that works with Msd Ignitions.
- installed innovate mlx AFR guage.
Carbs again: Aug 2020
- changed jetting from main 165, air 210 and idle 60 to 155 main, 220 air and 57.5 idle.
Carbs again: Nov 2020
- need to replace figure 8 O-ring in rear carb. Jet block is loose and leaking fuel. Over rich on cyl 3 . project complete and idles at 14.7 and runs 12.5 on AFR. As soon as the wheels are back on I will take it for a run around the block to check WOT. Insurance is back on in March 2021 for the final test and tune.
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winter Plans:
- Widen Fenders by 2 Cm to cover rear tires then repaint the fender then remount is planned for next year.
- possibly relocate fenders for less clearance.
- exhaust repairs
- so far gutted cat and installed insert
- installed new bung for O2 sensor
- installed Flowmaster Stainless HP2 muffler to replace glass pack. First time welding stainless. So far so good.
- add front fender welting
- possibly lower front fender to retain ground clearance and lower lights in front.
