Floatless Fuel Tank Sending Unit

The seal at the top of the fuel tank for the Sending unit started to leak.  The garage was filling with gas fumes and the float-style sender was bouncing when driving.  The overall accuracy of the old float style was also in question.

I removed the old sender and replaced it with a new Tanks Inc 9" floatless design. The Sender is Smiths Gauges standard 10-180 Ohms.  If I ever decide to replace the Lamco Fuel Guage with a Smiths it will be compatible.    The top and bottom of the tube have a 2mm hole to allow fuel to fill the tube.  The entire tube contains the fuel so that movement when driving is kept to a minimum.

The sender is connected to the LamCo Adjustable fuel gauge. 

On each side of the Light bulb socket is an adjuster for the Ohms for full-tank and empty-tank. Full was adjusted.  After driving I will have to reset the empty level. 

Adjustability was not sufficient.  Purchased smiths 10-90 ohm fuel guage.    With the 1" space to bottom of the tank I should have a 3 to 5 liter reserve.   Currently at 160km and 1/4 tank left.   Will refuel at indicated empty.   The recalibrate reserve capacity. 

 

watenabe

Who knew Watanabe wheels were so impressive. Replacement cost is 400us$ each 

Very rare with a history.   Ultra lightweight

13x6 front with 185/60/13

13x7 rear with 205/60/13

Tires are Yokohama 048

mikuni phh44 carbs

Step 1 was to balance the carbs, check plugs and tune.  

Symptom was overly rich on cylinder 3. After close inspection I was able to move the jet block 0.5mm.  The entire jet block is loose.  It was time to order parts.  Best afr I could get was 12.7 idle and running  and 10.5 on WOT.

Starting point for jets was 165 main and 210 air with 60 pilot.  

Tuning made it drivable but was still too rich on cyl 3.

Changed air correction to 220 and main to 160 and pilot to 57.5. Minor improvements for afr. Better performance but still too rich on #3.

Changed jets to 155 main, 220 air and 57.5 pilot.  Still too rich on #3.   So it's time to check the jet block and orings.

Rebuilt carb with cylinder 3.    The figure 8 o-ring was not sealing under the jet block.  This is accessed by removing the accelerator pump and removing the jet block retaining screw.

Cleaned the carbs and reinstalled with new o-rings.

Back to step 1 and balanced carbs.with syncronizer.

 Set pilots at 1 turn and restarted.   The afr jumped to 14.5 to 15.0 at idle and blips to 12.5.  

Opened up the pilots and it currently sits a 2 turns.   Will have to set after its on the road in spring .   Much better response 👌 

Final jetting is main 160,   air 220 , pilot 60 with 1 1/8 turn on pilot screw.

brakes

Time to replace the rotors.  Turns out the brakes are from a 70 to 73 celica/corolla/corona with 9" solid rotors. 

Calipers are Akebono 1 7/8 "1708"

the rotors were in rough shape and at $37 each its easier to replace than have them turned.

And now the new.

rear fenders

Started to widen rear fenders to match tire sidewall. 

step 1 remove fenders  

step 2 wire mesh template

remount fender to check template and adjust

Xps rigid foam template.  Next step is to seal and fiberglass into place.  Then remove fender and complete fiberglass work.

Test fit fender.

Seal and final fit is done.

polyester resin is in place

fiberglass in place and now top coat before primer

couple layers of sandable primer

Finished  fiberglass,  paint then remount fender.

transmission

Trans stamp 110-18551

Toyota 5speed

Trans fluid change to royal purple 75-90 w synthetic gl4/5

1.7liters 

exhaust dec 2020

Time to replace the burnt out glass pack muffler.

Started by gutting cat, installing heavy mesh insert in cat, replacing glass pack with flowmaster hp2 laminar flow muffler. 

Lots of welding and grinding to make it leak free then wrapping with header wrap.  

 

I like the sound and decibels have dropped by 10 according to the sound meter app.  the tone is a lot deeper too.